Men’s fashion is in a new place, and, if possible, an even gayer place then it was before. Rejoice!!! Well, hold on a second. Much like the demise of fantastic labels and designers through people just wanting the logo on a purse or simple hat. The new more feminine menswear is in danger of falling to this also. I’m hoping not though. It’d be sad for the fake “fashionistas” to dull it down like they have so many times before. Boiling incredible art and fashion down to its lowest form.
The representation of what “masculinity” is is finally being challenged throughout the arts. There is a fragility that is being revealed. This fragility some of us have known, dealt with and felt for years. The fragility of men has been hidden yet omnipresent for as long as I can remember. It’s hard in such a patriarchal world to accept that men are actually lace and not leather and much more so then women. This exposé I can see in a lot of the designers fall presentations.
We are in a time of political trauma and upheaval. An upheaval that is doing what all right wing resurgences throughout history have, making better art! Thanks Trump and Trumpiteirs. The patriarchy panicked after our liberal leadership for years. They panicked and now we have Trump, Teresa and Brexit. We artists purge this in to our work and show them the finger. Men’s fashion has a big middle finger strutting down the catwalks with the words “kiss it!” falling from the boys lips as they strut and mince. This years presentations also celebrate boyishness also, which I love. It’s the story of being whatever the fuck we want to be as men and as humans. An expression of all the facets we have and for me, fashion is that. A presentation of my truth that I choose to adapt and play with every morning.
“Today I’m a mountain, yesterday I was a stream, now I am all, then I am all and will always be all”@philjohnperry
Cling wrapped boys, surgical smocks and tailored soldiers pulled in at the waist. Cinched is all over and it’s perfect! That restriction has been away from men’s fashion and predominantly for the female. It’s sexy and fair. Drag entering it’s huge era of popularity may had played a part.
Tailoring is BACK! Silhouettes creating oversized frame yet all the while being almost corseted above the hips. This shape is delicious take on the trench. Playing with the elements of the everyday “man” and pulling it back to the restriction and history of the ever changing desires of female frame.
The use of plastic is interesting and almost a protective metaphor for masculinity and the bravery it takes to showcase your true style as a man. The glassey textures of the wig like headdresses impeding the models face gives a sense of the hidden and the need to protect the fragile yet also hide it. The colours and transparency are a fun play on the designers darker concept.
One word here ..... MANCHESTER!! I’m a Manchester boy and have had these looks and styles in my personal repertoire since Liam Gallagher took my eye as a little lad. beyond beautiful!
This range is 1990’s Brit pop with almost no new evaluation or new take on it. Usually I’m not in to replication but in this case I’m in to IT! The 1990’s were everything we aren’t now, especially in music, art, pop culture and fashion. It wasn’t like now, a celebration of the mediocre and bland (and privilege). It was a working class fight for success that was won! The naughty kids were running the show and what a better time it was. Even in the 90’s these shapes, cuts and textures weren’t new. They were replicating the punk movement and the mods and the rockers.
From the tweed to the exposed white socks Celine has gone full on Bangers and Mash and a cup of tea!
The cut of some of the trousers are wider and more harreem in shape apart from that it’s Brit pop. Jarvis Cocker, Liam and Noel would be proud, well perhaps not, they probably wouldn’t give a f£#k, that’s kind of the idea.
I love the range but kind of wish it wasn’t by Celine. It’s not a brand I have ever connected with before or seen anything of any real interest other than their mainstream aesthetic. It’s one of those labels that has become the label above all else. Perhaps this is why, replication. Replicating this look is cool with me though. Especially with Britain being in such a mess at the moment.
Kenzo really have gone blue collar, which again is so relevant. The designers Chinese/Peruvian heritage blares through the (again) british tweed and plaid.
Interesting panelling, insane amounts of pockets and layers and lanyards gives the aesthetic of utopian worker.
Again tailoring is a strong component, which is exciting to see. True skill. There’s been a lot of draped fabric on mainly naked boys recently. Some of it is so fun and really sexy but with no real message, skill or concept other then cute boys wearing no clothes. I believe fashion to need garments? What are you selling/styling with out them? The actual model becomes the art then. I do like and enjoy these ranges but on a very shallow level. I like that level but it’s not overly interesting as art.
This kenzo look is my favourite of the fall collections and I want it!!